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459. The Suit, Savile Row, and Smartly Dressed Men

The Rest Is History

Sun Jun 09 2024



The Evolution of the Suit:

  • The suit, a traditional attire for men in Britain and Europe, has evolved over time to symbolize class and status.
  • Originating in 14th century Latin Christendom, the suit's design marked a departure by hugging the body instead of hanging off it.
  • During England's Civil War, dress style became emblematic of ideology with Charles I announcing a new design post-Great Fire fears in 1666.
  • Samuel Pepys recorded King Charles II setting a fashion for clothes after the Great Fire to teach nobility thrift through a vest.

Influences on Suit Fashion:

  • Beau Brummell revolutionized men's fashion by emphasizing understated sophistication and balance in clothing choices.
  • His influence popularized dark coats, white shirts, clean linen, and trousers as modern elements of male attire.
  • Trousers replaced breeches due to their modernity and democratic connotations influenced by sailors' uniforms.

Political Significance and Ideological Shifts:

  • The suit intertwined with political ideologies during periods like the Restoration era where sober dressing was seen as patriotic against extravagant French fashions.
  • Sumptuary laws regulated historical clothing norms but were challenged by merchants adopting courtier-like styles post-Civil War.
  • The rejection of sumptuous displays led to associations between extravagance in dress and effeminacy or unpatriotic behavior.

Impact on Society and Global Spread:

  • Mass production facilitated by industrialization made suits more accessible to urban populations in the 20th century.
  • American capitalism popularized suits globally post-WWII making it an international business uniform.
  • Rejecting traditional suiting norms like ties may signal shifts away from centuries-old primacy of suits.

Future Trends and Challenges:

  • Modern rejection of traditional suiting norms like ties or formal attire may signal shifts away from centuries-old primacy of suits.
  • Silicon Valley culture embracing casual wear might indicate changing attitudes towards formal business attire.

Savile Row Tailoring History:

  • Savile Row, a historic street in London established in the 18th century, is renowned for its high-end bespoke tailoring services.
  • Anderson and Shepard, founded in 1906 by Per Gustav Anderson and Frederik Scholte, introduced the English drape style that attracted show business clientele like Noel Coward and Laurence Olivier. This innovative style set them apart from traditional military-inspired suits.
  • Tommy Nutter's shop on Savile Row in the 1960s modernized traditional tailoring with flamboyant designs, appealing to pop royalty such as Mick Jagger and Elton John. His unique approach combined elements of mod fashion with classic craftsmanship.
  • Edward Sexton, a partner of Tommy Nutter, continued the legacy of innovative British tailoring into the contemporary era, designing suits for celebrities like Harry Styles. His work exemplifies a blend of tradition and modernity in bespoke tailoring.

Endurance of the Suit:

  • The suit is likely to endure due to its association with professionalism and status in various settings like business engagements or formal events. It serves as a symbol of seriousness and respectability.
  • While women's suiting has faced challenges with perceptions tied to receptionist attire, men's suits may persist as a reliable uniform conveying seriousness and respectability across different industries.
  • The suit serves as a sartorial equivalent of businessman's English - practical, inconspicuous, and universally understood despite potential shifts in fashion trends.

Future Trends:

  • Despite challenges from more casual dress codes like hoodies and jeans, the suit is expected to maintain relevance as a versatile uniform for occasions requiring a polished appearance. Its adaptability makes it suitable for diverse professional environments.
  • The enduring nature of uniforms suggests that the suit will continue to be favored for its ability to convey professionalism without drawing attention or judgment. Its timeless appeal transcends fleeting fashion trends.
  • Designers like Tom Ford or Giorgio Armani have room to refine and adapt the classic suit design while preserving its timeless appeal amidst evolving fashion preferences. Their creativity can infuse new life into traditional tailoring methods while meeting contemporary style demands.